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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Cable Doesn't feed Properly?
Cable Breakage?
Brittle Cables & Chemical Drain Cleaners?

 

CABLE BREAKAGE:

Cable Brakeage generally is a result of continued rotation of the drum and cable, when the cutting blade of the cable becomes jammed and unable to turn.  The cable then curls around itself (helixed) , kinking into a V shape, spreading the coils and finally breaking.  (Please refer to the pictured examples of broken and kinked cable.  Excessive torque characteristics can be seen in the pictured cables.  Cables rarely fail due to material defects but as a result of excessive torque being applied to the cable. 

Each time a cable is used some of the initial tension (stiffness) is lost.  Therefore more caution is required when breaking in a new cable, as the cable is more likely to be kinked or broken when new.  How much cable is down the line is also a contributing factor in cable kinks and breaks.    The more cable out of the drum and in the line, the greater the length of cable over which torque may be distributed and the more torque the cable will handle before damage occurs. In other words, the more cable down the line, the more revolutions of the drum it can handle before a kink or breakage occurs. Always feed the cable in and out as you go. Freeing the torque build up, by pulling the cable back when a blockage is encountered, permits the blade to spin at high RPM’s thus cutting and tearing at the blockage. (Back To Top)

The cable in my machine doesn’t feed properly in or out and collapses around the crankarm:

Any time this happens with the Jr. or ‘400’  the crankarm is not turning freely.  On the Jr. machine the wing nuts holding the drum on the frame must be checked to be sure they are only finger tight.  Also make sure that the crankarm bearings and the drum bushing are lubricated.  One other possible cause is a bent frame either on the tubing or the flat steel on either end.  With the drum mounted on the machine and no cable in the drum the crankarm should turn freely by hand with the drum remaining stationary.

On the ‘400’ machine the thumb screw that goes up through the frame to the crankarm should be tight (pliers may be used).  With the drum and crankarm mounted and no cable  through the crankarm the arm should turn freely by hand with the drum remaining stationary.  Also check that there is no play  between the crankarm and drum hub by pushing straight back on the crankarm towards the drum.  If there is give here then loosen the set screws on the crankarm collars, push the arm all the way back against the drum hub and while maintaining back pressure on the crankarm slide the collars tight against the bearing and tighten set screws.  On the ‘400’ the crankarm must also be kept lubricated in the bearing through the oil spout and the cup on the end of the arm that rides on the drum hub.  On both machines it also helps to oil the cable and the inside of the arm.            (Back To Top)

Brittle Cables & Chemical Drain Cleaners:

            Cables exposed to chemical drain cleaners may not conform to normal cable breakage due to over torqueing and separation of the coils.  Exposing a cable to a drain line that has had chemical drain cleaners recently poured down it can cause the cable to loose its tensile strength and become very brittle.  A brittle cable may break cleanly with no apparent reason or coil separations. Examine for suspected chemical damage by looking for signs of etching on the metal.  White chemical deposits may be found between the coils also a chemical odor may be present on the cable. One test is to DROP The CABLE and if it shatters it’s crystallized.  Another method is to clamp the broken section firmly in a vise and give it a good RAP with a hammer and if it breaks off clean –it’s crystallized.  Remember, "Chemicals Poison The Snake”.

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Lefty, Ken-Way.Corp.
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Revised: June 16, 2005